Tatacoa Desert

Desierto de la Tatacoa is a 330km² (127 sq ml) dry zone located in the Colombian department of Huila, about 6 hours drive southwest of Bogotá. From the tourism point of view, people come here to admire the beautiful surreal landscapes and enjoy the area’s low noise and light pollution. Except for the photogenic scenery, relaxed atmosphere and stargazing opportunities, Tatacoa is also a good place for wildlife lovers, especially when they are into desert species, such as snakes, turtles, spiders, and scorpions, rodents and birds.

Although in the present day, we’re way past the point when we could call La Tatacoa an “off the beaten path” location, it is still a relatively unknown attraction. Perhaps it’s also because of the fact that it’s a bit off the so-called Gringo Trail that cuts through Colombia west of here along the Pan American Highway through Cali and Popayán. So let’s look at what’s there to see and experience as well as things to know, how to get there and so on so you can make up your mind whether it’s worth the 7+ hrs detour from the Gringo Trail or not.

Things to do in Tatacoa Desert

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In spite of its name, rather than a classic desert, Tatacoa is categorised as a dry tropical forest ecosystem. In other words, rather than some endless sand dunes, expect more of a bunch of eroded labyrinthy rocky canyons with tall cactuses and some bushes. Based on the composition of the soil, the area is divided into two basic sub-sections: Red and Grey Deserts.

Red Desert

The iron-rich Red Desert (Cusco) is more popular as well as the prettier of the two. The combination of colours, cactuses and the erosion-carved labyrinths is just stunning. Together with the multiple photos and a few stops, you can do the marked hike through the red desert in just a few hours. Whatever you do, do not miss out on the tree of wishes (el árbol de los deseos). According to our guide, the legend says, that if you manage to unfold the heart-shaped leaf without damaging it, you are granted a wish 😉

Grey Desert

Grey Desert (Los Hoyos) is a bit larger and grey version of its red sister. Perhaps it’s the tone of colour that makes the Red desert more popular but that’s good news because over here, in the grey canyons of Los Hoyos, the sensation of feeling very isolated feels even stronger. The popular place in Grey Desert is The Valley of Ghosts (Valle de los Fantasmas), where the stones are shaped like blanket-wearing silhouettes that raise from the soil.

Another unique experience Grey Desert has on its menu is a swimming pool in the middle of a desert. For 8000,-COP (€1.80), you could also use its showers. In case you’ve failed with unfolding the tree of wishes leaf in the Red Desert, don’t worry, in Grey Desert, you’ll get another shot in the Valley of Wishes (El Valle de los Deseos). All you need to do is to build a little rock tower of five pieces. FYI, this superstition doesn’t devaluate the weight of your wish conditioned by such an easy task – there is a catch – your mini-tower has to stand for at least one year 😉

Stargazing

Upon your visit to the Tatacoa Desert, I’d advise you to consider visiting the observatory. The above mentioned low light pollution should create great conditions for stargazing, should the weather permit. For 10 000 COP (€2.50), the local guide will explain the star constellations you can observe from the desert (en Español). In case you’ve had the luxury of being able to time your visit to Tatacoa, think of a new moon, to minimise the natural light pollution.

Villavieja

Villavieja is the gateway into the Tatacoa Desert. It would appear like just another classic small village, only if it wasn’t considered to be the Colombian centre of Paleontology. While millions of years ago, in the Tertiary Period, La Tatacoa was a fertile land filled with flowers and trees the land gradually dried up until it became a desert. Thanks to the progression of its soil layers and to the conditions that have facilitated the accumulation of various specimens, La Tatacoa is considered one of the largest fossil sites in America. Read more here about the paleontological significance of this area on UNESCO’s site, in case you were interested.

A tip: From a practical point of view, except visiting the Palaeontology Museum in the main square, you should consider doing a little shopping before heading to the desert’s hostels. I mean here you can get water and other things for a reasonable price…

Safety

Tatacoa Desert and Villavieja is a small community that relies on tourism. It is therefore perfectly safe around here when it comes to dangers caused by other humans. Then there is Mother Nature which could make things a little difficult if you underestimate it and although this isn’t Sahara, please drink plenty of fluids and take good care protecting yourself from the sun and insects.

How to get there and get around

• Bogotá to Villavieja: You could either head to the regional capital of Neiva and then take a collectivo back north to Villavieja on the other bank of the river or you could also pick the more fun and shorter journey like me and get off a bit earlier in Aipe and cross the river on the boat. It’s 6hrs bus ride from Bogotá‘s Bus Terminal @ 35000,-COP (€9,90) to Aipe. Walk through the village and entertain the local kids with a presence of a gringo 🙂 Walk further down into the meadows and take a boat across the river Magdalena to the village of Villavieja for 3000,-COP (€0.85)
• Villavieja to Bogotá: 1hr bus/van drive to the city of Neiva @ 15000,-COP (€4.26). Then 7hrs bus to get to Bogotá @ 30000,-COP (€8.40)
• Villavieja to Tatacoa: a “set price” rip off tuk tuk to the dessert @ 20000,-COP (€5.70)
• Cali to Villavieja: if you are travelling from Cali, the 383 km drive to Neiva takes apparently nearly 7 hours, then you’ll need to retrace my last steps in the opposite direction towards Villavieja
• To get around, you can either rent a bike or get a tuk tuk tour to visit both, Grey as well as the prettier Red Dessert. FYI, the latter is located close to most hostels and it’s therefore explorable on foot.

Practical notes

• Please remember that you’re in a desert so it gets very hot in the day and a bit chilly at night
• Upon your strolls around the desert, consider wearing light clothes and a cap and do not forget about sunscreen
• Sorry, for stating the obvious but do not forget to hydrate properly
• Please note that the name Tatacoa refers to rattlesnakes. It’s a desert so it comes with certain forms of life quite a few people don’t consider the most pleasant. Except rattle snakes, you could apparently encounter also spiders, scorpions, eagles, alligators and wildcats.

When to visit

According to the locals, the best time to visit the desert is in mid-August and just before the Xmas to be able to observe the meteor showers.

Stay

There are several hostels in close proximity to the observatory. I’ve personally first I’ve stayed in a highly praised place called Alojamiento Casa de campo los Cactus. There were very friendly owners but the room I was given wasn’t the one I’ve booked according to the pictures and description, plus it cost me the staggering US $25 for a private room, while I’ve slept in an empty dorm by myself.

I’ve therefore moved to Hostal Noches de Saturno which came with a decent restaurant, more social opportunities and a swimming pool for only $6,30 for a modest but clean private room. Unfortunately, I couldn’t book this place in advance as they didn’t respond to my booking request made via their Fcbk site. Perhaps, you’ll be luckier 🙂

So is Tatacoa Desert worth visiting?

I’d say that if you like deserts and if you have a spare three days, or if you just looking for a place to chill out for a few days, then it is well worth it to check out La Tatacoa. I mean that it likely won’t be the most memorable experience in your life but we’re still talking about a stunning place with a very tranquil atmosphere and very friendly locals, where you can recharge your batteries 😉

Useful and interesting links

• UNESCO‘s page on Tatacoa about geography, fossils, palaeontology and so on
• Teritary Period: More about the days, when millions of years ago, La Tatacoa was a fertile land could be found here, on Encyclopedia Britannica
• Tatacoa: Luca Tofan writes about Tatacoa Desert for Bogotá Post
• Tatacoa: Here‘s the official tourism website of the Republic of Colombia

Other popular destinations nearby

Pasto and Nariño Province

If you were entering Colombia from Ecuador, you would most likely arrive through the Nariño Province. Although right across the border, there’s a popular iconic Las Lajas Sanctuary, the region itself is rather “off the beaten path”, when it comes to tourism. So if you’re into the less-visited destinations, click here in order to find out what has Nariño Province to offer you.

Cali

Heading in the northwest direction from Neiva, you’d enter the popular city of Cali, AKA “the world capital of salsa” that also comes with a massive party scene. There’s however much more to this large 2 million people city in the cosmopolitan centre of southern Colombia than just party, salsa and a troubled past. The city has numerous impressive sites and museums to visit, plus at about 1000m elevation only, that is combined with the Pacific winds it has a nearly ideal climate for your hangovers, not to mention the nature that surrounds the city. Read more about Cali here on Colombia Travel, the official turism website of Colombia.

Popayán

Only a few hours south-west of Neiva, there’s another popular destination in Colombia. Dubbed the “White City” because of the facades of its old colonial houses, Popayán belongs to a group of the most picturesque cities in Latin America. The city also has a strong and well-reputed coffee and restaurant scene and some decent nightlife options. If you are in the region, it is definitely worth your visit for a few days. Read more about Popayán here, on Colombia Travel website.

Guaviare and The Amazon Region

For a traveller that is keen on the “off the beaten path” location, here’s a true gem I was recommended by a few local friends: Guaviare province. Due to its remote character, this previously guerilla-held Amazon-bordering area which was considered a no-go zone just a few years ago is now open to be explored by curious travellers. Whether it’s the hospitality of the friendly locals, mysterious cave pictograms in Serranía La Lindosa or Caño Cristales AKA the river of seven colours, one can apparently expect priceless memories. More info could be found here, on Colombia Travel website.

Bogotá

Although the Colombian capital doesn’t have the best reputation, as a cultural and economical centre, if you’re into history, art or people, Bogotá has a lot to offer. It’s true that this megacity of 8 million people isn’t for everyone as some people find a bit intense. The 2021 spike in anti-government unrests, followed by the rise of crime and violence in the country furthermore appears to work against the massive progress, Colombia made in the last few decades. Given these alarming tendencies, some travellers raise questions about their safety, while others still opt to visit Colombia, including its capital, to check out its numerous landmarks, museums and vibrating nightlife scene. More info about Bogotá, Districto Capital could be found here.

Latin American locations covered on Quaint Planet

Santiago de Chile ► Valparaíso ► Santiago de Chile ►Punta Arenas – Ushuaia – Punta Arenas ► Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales ► El Calafate (Perito Moreno Glacier, Arg) ► El Chaltén (Los Glaciares National Park) ► Chile Chico (Ch) – Puerto Rio Tranquillo (Marble Caves) ► Coyhaique – Puyuhuapi – (Carretera Austral) ► Puerto Chacabuco – Quellón/Castro ► Puerto Varas – San Carlos de Bariloche (Arg) ► Buenos Aires ► Colonia (Ur) ► Montevideo ► Punta del Diablo – Cabo Polonio ► Montevideo ► Salto ► Concordia (Arg) ► Puerto Iguazú (Iguazú Falls) ► Salta ► San Salvador de Jujuy ► Tilcara ► San Pedro de Atacama (Ch) ► Uyuni Salt Flats Tour (Bol) ► Uyuni ► Sucre – La Paz (Death Road Tour) ► Copacabana (Lake Titicaca) – Isla del Sol – Copacabana ► Cusco (Per) ► Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu) ► Cusco ► Lima ► Máncora – Montañita (Ecu) ► Puerto López ► Quito ► Ipiales (Col) – Pasto ► Tatacoa Desert ► Bogotá ► Medellín ► Villa de Lleyva ► Santa Marta – Cartagena – Rincón del Mar Necoclí ► Capurganá ► Puerto Obaldía (Pan) ► Panama City ► Las Lajas ► Cerro Punta ► David ► Bocas del Torro ► San José (Costa Rica) ► San Juan del Sur (Nic) – Ometepe ► Granada ► Managua – El Rama – Bluefields – Corn Islans ► Léon ► El Tunco (El Salvador) ► La Antigua Guatemala – Lake Atitlán ► Lanquín (Semuc Champey) – Flores (Tikal) ► Belize City ► Bacalar – Tulum – Playa del Carmen – Mérida – Valladolid – Cancún ✈️ .